Shrewsbury Biscuits (Shrewsbury Cakes)

What is a Shrewsbury cake?

A Shrewsbury cake was the forerunning name of the Shrewsbury biscuit. Evidence suggests that they were incredibly similar bakes, perhaps with the cake being much larger than our modern-day biscuits.

The Shrewsbury biscuit that we know and love today has been repeatedly praised throughout history for its buttery taste and crisp, somewhat brittle texture. It’s like a very thin shortbread biscuit with a hint of lemony flavour.

Where and when did they originate?

This bake, originating from the town of Shrewsbury in Shropshire, has been around for centuries. It first appeared in a recipe book in 1658 (The Compleat Cook of 1658) but it’s likely these biscuits have been around since the 1500s.

Shrewsbury biscuits are often associated with a local Shrewsbury bookseller and baker called Mr Pailin. However, he did not create them. He was famed simply for selling them from his bakery. The site, close to Shrewsbury Castle, still exists and now bears a commemorative plaque noting 1760 as the year Mr Pailin started selling them there.

What flavours should be included?

The Compleat Cook of 1658 lists sugar, flour, eggs, butter, and lemon zest as ingredients but there are plenty of other old recipes knocking around featuring orange zest, rose water and various spices, particularly ginger, nutmeg and/ or cinnamon.

The general consensus seems to be that any combination of the above flavours goes. Caraway seeds and currants are also acceptable inclusions.

Why do they sometimes have a pattern?

Occasionally, these traditional biscuits come adorned with an ornate pattern. It’s quite an old-fashioned way to present Shrewsbury cakes, but they do look lovely when decorated this way.

The reason for the design is twofold:

• First of all, the dashed diamond pattern makes the biscuits easy to snap into bite-sized pieces. Back in the days when this bake would have been served to well-to-do ladies it made eating them in a refined, suitably lady-like fashion, possible. Ladies could snap a piece off and pop it into their mouths without having to do something so uncouth as taking a bite in public – oh, I say!
• Secondly, the holes in the centre of each diamond also help ensure an even and thorough bake. This helps achieve the crisp and brittle characteristics the Shrewsbury biscuit is famous for.

Luckily, the pattern is very easy to achieve. A fine-toothed comb (clean), a toothpick and a few minutes of patience are all that is required.

Links with India

This Shropshire speciality is famous outside of England too. Kayani Bakery, a family-owned business in Pune, near Mumbai, has been making eggless Shrewsbury biscuits for decades. Their version is similar to buttery shortbread without additional flavours such as lemon. 

These biscuits proved hugely popular and, as a result, are quite famous. From what I gather they have fuelled many a teenage gossip-filled midnight feast at boarding schools over the years.

How should Shrewsbury be pronounced?

The correct pronunciation of Shrewsbury is hotly debated – especially amongst Salopians (people native to Shropshire). Some people say shrows (rhyming with throws) whilst others insist it’s definitely shroos (rhyming with brews).

Some claim the pronunciation comes down to how posh you are (go for shrows if you’re feeling posh today) whilst others assert it depends on whether you are English (shrows) or Welsh (shroos). This theory makes historical sense given the proximity of Shrewsbury to the Welsh border.

So how do I say it? Shroosbury – which discredits both theories as I’m neither posh nor Welsh. Still in two minds and feeling embarrassed? Take my advice: dodge the question entirely by munching a biscuit whenever anybody asks you what they’re called. It’s rude to talk with your mouth full, after all.